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Travel: A Date With
Archaeology
Rangan Datta explores some of West Bengal’s lesser known historic
places
Do you want to spend next Sunday exploring the remains of an ancient
temple built by the legendary mathematicians Khana and Mihir or the
newly dug-out remains of a Buddhist Stupa, reportedly seen by the
famous Chinese traveler Fa-Hien? Or the extensive citadel unearthed
from an ancient mound, or the fort of the mythical king Chandraketu,
buried under a mound for centuries?
Names like Chandraketugarh, Dhosa and Tilpi and Ballal Dhipi may
sound alien and far off but each of them is close enough to be
explored in a single day. So, with winter fully set in, its best to
pack your bags for a date with archaeology, which can also double up
as a great picnic.
Chandraketugarh
According to archaeologists, Chandraketugarh was a prosperous urban
settlement, which flourished between 4th century BC to 12th century
AD, spanning six years starting from the pre-Mauryan to the Pala
period.
The most remarkable finds of the region have been excavated from a
mound, locally known as Khana Mihir’er Dhipi. Nothing much remains
of the huge polygonal structure connected to the square vestibule.
The roof has long collapsed and all that remains are the walls and a
flight of stairs. The 4-feet thick walls are enough to explain the
grandeur of the structure. Also, nothing much is known about the
historical background of the structure, archaeologists believe it to
be a temple dating back to the Pala period.
About a kilometer away from Khana Mihir lies the mound covering the
fort of the mythical king Chandraketu. It is unfortunate that after
the initial excavation in 1956-57 nothing much has been done here.
The huge mound surrounded by rice fields, stands as a mute spectator
covering up centuries of history.
Trip tips: Regular buses are available from Esplanade to Barachampa,
via Barasat. (Time: 2 hours. Fare: Rs20). Khana Mihir’er Dhipi is
located next to the bus-stand and Chandraketugarh is about a
kilometre away. There are basic eateries in Barachampa. For more
information: The Asutosh Museum in Calcutta University and the
private collection of Dilip Maita at Berachampa.
Dhosa and Tilpi
Dhosa and Tilpi are the latest additions in the archaeological map
of West Bengal. Excavation started in January 2006 and yielded
treasures far beyond the expectations of archaeologists.
The famous Chinese traveller Fa Hien reported a highly evolved
Buddhist civilisation that flourished in Gangetic Bengal. The
concentric square structure unearthed at Dhosa seemed to be the
remains of a Buddhist Stupa, one of the 22 reported by Fa Hien. It
probably belongs to the Gupta period, dating back to the 2nd and 1st
century BC. The findings at Dhosa are probably the first concrete
evidence of the popularity of Buddhism in Bengal.
On the other hand, Tilpi, the twin site of Dhosa, has yielded almost
no archaeological structures but the entire region is strewn with
copper ore, iron slag, punched-marked and cast copper coins,
fragments of pottery (including glazed pottery). Historians are of
the opinion that the findings at Tipli are the remains of an ancient
furnace, where smiths smelted metals like silver and iron along with
alloys like bronze and cast them into coins. Archaeological evidence
indicates that both smelting and casting were carried out at Tilpi
simultaneously, probably the only place in Gangetic Bengal to do so.
Trip tips: Sealdah (South) – Take the Namkhana Local and get down at
Gocharan (Time: 1hour, fare: Rs9). Gocharan - Dhosa auto (Time: 45
minutes, fare Rs7). Dhosa - Tilpi - Dhosa motor van (Time 15
minutes, fare Rs 50) For more Information: The State Archaeological
Museum, Behala.
 Ballal
Dhipi
For centuries a huge mound covering an area of 1300sq ft and 30ft
tall existed in Bamunpukur, a village very close to Mayapur. The
locals call it Ballal Dhipi, named after Ballal Sen of the Sen
dynasty, who ruled Bengal in 12th century AD. It was only in the
late 1970s when it attracted the attention of the Archaeological
Survey of India (ASI) and digging began in the early 1980s and was
carried out in two phases. The first phase was carried out in
1982-83 and was followed by the second and final phase in 1988-89,
revealing a stupendous brick structure in an extensive yard, covered
on all sides by an enclosure wall.
Stucco heads, terracotta human and animal figurines, copper utensils
and other objects have also been found from the site.
From the structure it is evident that the upper part was built over
an earlier existing structure. Historians also agree to this and
according to them, the upper remains dating back to the 12th century
AD was built over another structure that dates back to the 8th and
9th century AD. Archaeologists have found traces of renovation and
superimposition of structures revealing the remains of a temple
complex dating back to 12th century AD.
Trip tips: Sealdah - Krishnanagar Local (time: 2hours, 15mins, fare
Rs19). Krishnanagar - Bamunpukur bus (time: 45 minutes, fare Rs9).
Simple eateries are available at Krishnanagar.
For more information: Ashutosh Museum, Calcutta University
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