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IN THE LAND OF THE YAK -
Langtang...
One of the most beautiful valleys in the world, Langtang, to the
north of Katkmandu attracts trekkers from the across the world. It
is a pity, however, that not many Indians are aware of the wonders
this region has to offer, says Rangan Datta
 To
the north of Kathmandu lies the valley of Langtang-the “Land of the
Yak.” Legend has it, that once a lama lost his yak and followed it
up the Langtang River. The animal died at a place called Langsisa,
but the lama, wanting the hide, skinned it and spread it on a rock
to dry. The skin, however stuck fast to the rock and the remains are
rumoured to be still there for all to see! There in lies the mystery
of its name, for lang stands for “yak” while tang means “to follow”.
My journey to the land of the yak started from Kathmandu vi Syabru
Bensi on a bus so crowded, that passengers had to sit on the roof.
The metalled road up to Trishuli gave way to a dirt road and that
was one bumpy ride! At Dunche, the gateway to to Langtang National
Park, our baggage was submitted to a spot-check. Paying the entry
fee(Rs 100 per head for Indians and Rs 1,000 per head for other
foreign nationals), we moved on to Syabru Bensi, two hours behind
schedule.
A small town at the confluence of the rivers, Bhoti Koshi and
Langtang, Syabru Bensi had several hotels catering to trekkers from
all over the world. Halting at one of these for the night, I started
off on my trek, the following morning, crossing both the rivers
along with several of their tributaries. Reaching Bamboo Lodge by
noon, I decided to call it a day. This village consisting of a
cluster of lodges, lay right in the middle of a boulder zone created
by a recent landslide. Through it flowed the Langtang River.
My trek, the following morning took me across an unstable bridge
over a tributary and along a route skirting the Langtang River.
Crossing a bridge at the site of a waterfall, I made my way along
the river’s north bank, halting for the night at Ghoretabla(3020 m),
a beautiful valley surrounded by jagged peaks and countless
waterfalls, with a view of the Langtang River far below.
Starting early the next day, I walked along the north bank of the
river and reached Langtang, the headquarters of the National Park,
in the afternoon. As I left it behind me, I came across a series of
Mani walls stupas. Towering behind them in the distance were a row
of snow peaks. The beauty of the sights sustained me all through my
two-hour trek to Kyngin Gompa, a small village with a scattering of
surprisingly well-equipped hotels (some even offered hot solar
showers!) which serve descent, if expensive meals. This little
“settlement” was presided over by a monastery and offered super
views of the mountains – the Langshisa Ri to the east, the Langtang
Liruing, the Kimshung and the Yansu Tsengi to the north and the Naya
Kang the Ponggen Dokpu and the Ganchenpo to the south. Also visible
from here were Kyangin Ri and Tsergo Ri, two peaks marked with pair
flags and overlooking meadows dotted with grazing yaks.
Excursions are organized regularly from Kyangin and I spent two days
there so that I could avail of them. Setting off on the first day
for Tsergo Ri, I jumped across a trickle of a tributary and followed
the line of a ridge, pausing for a rest at a yak-shed. Continuing on
my way, I reached the base of Tsergo Ri, a boulder zone which I had
a hard time negotiating. I knew I was close to my goal, but try as I
might (and I put in at least an hour’s effort), I couldn’t make it
to the summit. I did enjoy the view though. Starting off the next
day for the summit of Kyimoshing Ri (4620 m) and Kyangin Ri (4350
m), I followed the tributary, admiring Yansa Tsengi (6575 m) to the
north and the Ponggen Dokpu peak (5930 m) to the south, with the
Langtang River flowing around its base, before I reached the saddle,
an area marked with cairns (stones placed one atop the other). The
view from here was ….. heavenly.
Visible from the base was an astoundingly beautiful array of peaks,
but what drew my gaze away from them all, was the Lirung Glacier,
cascading down the steep face of the mountain. Skirting the ridgetop
to reach the peak of Kymoshinh Ri and admiring the string of
colorful prayer flags all the way, I carried on along the ridgetop
and arrived at the summit of Kyangin Ri, a rocky peak festooned with
more prayer flags. Having reached my goal, I paused to savour the
moment. For henceforth, the route would run all the way down,
straight to Kyangin village.
On my way back from Kyangin I passed the monastery to reach the base
of the glacier, where I stood reveling in the beauty of the nature.
Then I took a different route back to Syabru, endig my trek at
Dhunche, but not before buying some cheese from the factory at
Kyangin.
My eight-day trek through the Langtang region took me through one of
the most beautiful valleys in the world, embraced by mountains and
snow-clad peaks which seemed to be within touching distances. The
pity of it was that a family from Mumbai were the only other Indians
I met on the route. Every one else seemed to be from Europe.
Admittedly, the expenses involved in such a trek are high. What many
of our countrymen being able to afford trips to far-off tourist
hotspots around the world, however, one wonders how they can remain
oblivious to a destination that is so near and a prime example of
nature at its best. |
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