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The Statesman – 8th Day,
18th December 2005.
KONARK -- Ode To The SUN TEMPLE
A visit to Konark is like a trip back in time and a journey into the
pages of history, writes Rangan Datta
The Konark Sun Temple, the crowning piece of Orissa’s architecture
resembles the mighty chariot of the Sun God. Resting on 24 gigantic
wheels ( representing the hours of a day) and drawn by seven
ferocious horses ( representing the seven days of a week), the
temple is a unique piece
 of
architecture probably found nowhere else in the world. Built in the
thirteen century by the Ganga Dynasty King Narasingha Dev I, the
temple has long been abandoned and large portions have collapsed. It
is not known when the temple was abandoned and when the portions
collapsed and till today historians debate these issues. The Konark
Sun Temple, the crowning piece of Orissa’s architecture, resembles
the mighty chariot of the Sun God. Resting on 24 gigantic wheels
(representing the hours of a day) and drawn by seven ferocious
horses (representing the seven days of a week), the temple is a
unique piece of architecture probably found nowhere else in the
world. Built in the thirteen century by the Ganga Dynasty King
Narasingha Dev I, the temple has long been abandoned and large
portions have collapsed. It is not known when the temple was
abandoned and when the portions collapsed and till today historians
debate these issues.
It was only in the early 18th century that British archaeologist
rediscovered Konark. Later on, it acted as a lighthouse for East
India Company mariners, who christened it the Black Pagoda. In 1901
Lord Curzon took up the first restoration work. Sand was cleared and
the existing part of the temple sealed to prevent it from further
collapse.
It is now maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India and it is
an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although they are doing a creditable
job but Nature is taking its toll, the hot moist air of the sea is
constantly eroding the Temple at an alarming rate. Today the temple
seems to be surrounded by a metallic cage. Metallic structure
support parts of the temple, which are on the verge of collapsing.
So if you want to see the temple, it is better not to delay further
because the earlier you visit the better condition you get to see it
in.
Located 35 km from Puri, Konark can be reached along the Marine
Drive. Every day thousands of tourists visit the temple on a day
trip from Puri, but this is definitely an injustice to one of the
most famous landmarks of the
 country.
Spending the night at Konark not only provides ample time to see the
temple but also provides the opportunity to seen the beautifully
illuminated temple at night, a sight certainly not to be missed.
The road to Konark is really good and it takes about an hour to
reach. En route lies Chandrabhaga, Konark’s nearest beach. It is one
of the few beaches in the country from where you can see the sun
both rise and set. The sunset along the edge of the beach turns the
sand, sky and the sea into a bright shade of crimson.
Built in traditional style of Orissa, the temple consists of three
stages — namely Natmandir (the outer complex), Jagmohan (the central
complex) and Garbhagriha (the main complex housing the Deity). Being
a sun temple, it faces East and every day the gentle rays of the
rising sun illuminate the temple’s entrance.
During the course of the day the sun circles the temple, and in the
process illuminates the three magnificent images of the morning,
mid-day and setting sun. The Natmandir is approached by a flight of
stairs, with two ‘gajasinghhas’ (elephant and lion) standing as
sentinels. The roof has long collapsed but the intricately
sculptured pillars and the base remain intact. In fact every wall of
the temple has exquisite sculptures covering many aspects of life.
They range from scenes of love and war to trade and court
transactions, from hunting of elephants to teaching of sages and
from erotic amorous coupes to mythical creatures. The Jagmohan along
with the Garbhagriha form the Chariot of the Sun. The horses are in
a decapitated condition but the 24 wheels at the base are more or
less intact. Here again a flight of stairs leads to the decorated
sealed entrance of the Jagmohan, the most intact part of the temple.
The upper section of the Jagmohan is provided with ‘Surasundaries’
playing the cymbals, drums, flute and trumpets. The ceiling of the
200 feet high Garbhagriha has long collapsed and not much of remains
except for its richly sculptured walls.
The northern and southern walls are provided with magnificent
statues of the Sun God while the western wall contains the statue of
the setting sun god. The Sun Temple complex also contains remains of
several other temples and structures. The most notable among them is
the temple of Chaya (shadow) Devi, consort of the Sun. The richly
decorated walls are all that remain of this small but elegant
temple. There are beautiful images of horses, elephants, lions
scattered all over the complex. The complex also contains the
remains of wells, courtyard, storerooms etc. In fact every bit of
this highly decorated complex has something to do with history.
Located near the complex is the Konark Museum. It houses some of the
sculpture removed from the temple including a reconstructed wheel.
As not much can be done to prevent the temple from eroding away, the
remaining pieces are being removed to the safe custody of the museum
to save them from further damage. Visiting Konark is like a trip
back in time, a journey into the pages of history and an experience
no historical book could ever provide. Necessary information:
Getting there: Puri can be reached by Jagannath / Puri
Express. Regular buses (fare Rs 21) run between Puri and Konark.
Taxis are also available. Regular tours are also organised.
Places to stay: OTDC has Pantha Shala and Pantha Nivas.
Booking can be done from Utkal Bhawan. Ph. 2244 3653.
Places to eat: A number of roadside eateries provide
excellent food at very reasonable prices. |
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