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Next weekend you can be
at... Rabdanste
Do you want to spend a weekend exploring the ruins of an ancient palace
atop a ridge in the shadows of the mighty Kanchenjungha? If you do,
head for Rabdanste ? there?s no better getaway for those curious
about history and passionate about geography.
Rabdanste was the seat of Sikkimese power for more than a hundred
years, except for a brief period. Soon after being crowned in 1642,
Phunstok Namgyal, the first Chogyal of Sikkim, had established his
capital at Yuksum. His son Tensung, however, shifted the capital to
Rabdanste.
In 1780, their descendant Tenzing ascended the throne. His reign was
marked by the invasion of Sikkim by Nepal. Large chunks of the
kingdom were ceded to the Nepalese and many residents were forced to
flee to Lhasa.
The king of Nepal went on to capture parts of Tibet, which led to
Chinese intervention and his eventual defeat. A Sino-Nepali treaty
was signed and although Sikkim lost some of its land, the monarchy
was restored.
Meanwhile, in Lhasa, Tenzing Namgyal died and his son Tsudphud
returned to Rabdanste. He, however, considered the capital unsafe
due to its proximity to the border and moved it to Tumlong, in north
Sikkim. Today, the ancient palace of the Namgyals ? declared a
monument of national importance ? lies in ruins on a ridge
overlooking Pelling.
Rabdanste is just four km from Pelling and can be reached by foot.
En route lies the Pemayangtse Monastery, one of the holiest sites in
Sikkim. A short diversion, about two-and-a-half km from Pelling,
will take you to the monastery. A long line of fluttering prayer
flags will welcome you.
The three-storeyed monastery houses some wonderful paintings and
other artwork. It also has a large collection of rare books. After a
stopover at the monastery, hit the road again for Rabdanste. The
motorable road soon gives way to a stone walking trail, followed by
an ascent of 10 minutes.
The palace can be divided into two parts. The northern flank served
as the residence of the royal family. Further north lies an open
courtyard, with three chortens (stupas), where the members of the
royal family used to offer prayers. The southern section was meant
for the common people and is marked by the durbar, with its stone
throne.
You can spend an entire morning exploring the ruins, which also
offer a spectacular view of Kanchenjungha and the adjoining peaks.
On the trip back to Pelling, you can halt at Sangacheling Monastery,
located on a hilltop overlooking the town. Although there is a
motorable path to the monastery, it is best to follow the foot
trail.
In about half-an-hour you should be at the monastery, one of the
oldest in Sikkim. With some luck, you will be able to catch a
glimpse of the Kanchenjungha from here too.
Going
Calcutta-Siliguri bus (Rs 215 approximately) or Howrah-New
Jalpaiguri train (Rs 250 approximately). Jeeps are available from
Siliguri to Pelling (Rs 130 approximately)
Staying
Pelling has a number of hotels for all budgets. There are also
several restaurants
(METRO ON SUNDAY THANKS READER RANGAN DATTA FOR THIS CONTRIBUTION.
PICTURE BY AUTHOR) |
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