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Next weekend you can be
at... Kairabera & Murguma
Imagine walking through deep forests, beneath towering cliffs, past
huge lakes and through beautiful villages ? paradise, perhaps. But
the road to this particular haven isn?t easy. There are no hotels or
any modern facilities en route, so the traveller must be prepared to
spend the night in a canvas tent, under the stars.
If you want to enjoy nature in its purest form and don?t mind
roughing it out a little, then Kairabera and Murguma are the places
to be. The two villages in Purulia are near enough to Calcutta to
take off for the weekend. The best way to get there is to take a
night train from Howrah and get off in the morning at Barabhum. From
there, take a trekker to Baghmundi and finally, a bus ride to Koreng
More.
If the bus is too crowded even for standing room, then take your
place on the roof, all in the spirit of adventure. Then, it?s time
to stretch your legs. A four-km walk through a scenic village takes
you to Kairabera, where you are welcomed by a huge reservoir. Take
time out for a brief, self-cooked lunch ? or a packaged one if
you?ve managed to carry it thus far ? while drinking in the
breathtaking beauty of the lake. Simply sit on the banks and watch
the sun set over the vast expanse of the Purulia outback.
After a night spent in a tent, enjoy a cup of cha as the sun rises.
Breakfast cooked and eaten, climb up Chintoo Hill, overlooking the
lake, which offers a bird?s-eye view of the waterbody. Back at
ground level, munch on some lunch after the morning?s exercise.
Then, it?s time to move on again.
Follow the ridge overlooking the lake. A short but steep ascent
takes you to the top. Continue walking, past the picturesque tribal
villages of Jering Sering, Mamudi and Loya. The colourful mud huts
and scattered fields are a sight for sore eyes. The villagers are
friendly, always ready to help you find your way.
After walking five or six hours, Murguma lake appears on the
horizon. An hour?s descent later, you?re at the shore, in Murguma
village. Check in at the irrigation bungalow, where a dinner and a
good night?s sleep will help restore your strength.
Next morning, enjoy a leisurely walk along the embankment or just
perch yourself at one spot and breathe in the fresh air and
appreciate Mother Nature in all her pristine glory. Post-lunch (bhaat
and puti machher jhol) at the local hotel, it?s time to pack your
bag for the last time.
A three-kilometre walk along the metal road brings you to Begun
Kodor, a small town with a palace and a temple in ruins. A two-hour
bus ride to Purulia and a night train later, you?re back in the
city, tired but happy.
SURVIVAL KIT
• Camping gear
• Cooking gear
• Sturdy shoes
• A spirit of adventure
How to get there
Howrah-Chakradharpur Passenger from Howrah station at 10.40 pm. Get
off at Barabhum the next morning. Take a trekker to Baghmundi (fare
Rs 10) and then a bus to Koreng More (Rs 8). The jeep service to
Kairabera is infrequent, so you could walk the four km. It?s the
same story from Murguma to Begun Kodor, so again, walk the three km.
From Begun Kodor, there are regular buses to Purulia (Rs 18), from
where you can take the train back. The Chakradharpur Passenger
arrives in Howrah the next morning.
Where to stay
Kairabera has an abandoned irrigation bungalow, so the only option
is to camp. The area is frequented by wild elephants, so it?s best
to camp inside the bungalow complex. Murguma has an irrigation
bungalow. It can be booked from the irrigation department in
Calcutta or in Purulia. There is a lot of camping space.
What to eat
At Kairabera, self-help is the only option. Food is available at a
reasonable rate at the bungalow in Murguma. There are also small
eating places, but food has to be ordered in advance.
(Metro on Sunday thanks reader RANGAN DATTA for this contribution.)
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